Oatley Vineyard, Somerset
A chance turn down an overgrown lane near Cannington leads to an idyllic Somerset vineyard, a glass of wine under a gazebo, and one of the most charming winemakers you could hope to meet.
One sunny Sunday, my partner Matthew and I went for a drive to Watchet and Dunster — both beautiful places I'd highly recommend. Heading back south towards Cannington, we spotted a small white wooden sign advertising a vineyard. We decided to pop in on the way home, reasoning that 9:30 on a Sunday morning was a bit early to visit a vineyard — even for us.
On our return, I thought we'd missed the turning. As good fortune had it, we hadn't. We drove down a road that got progressively narrower, more overgrown and bumpier, with no way to turn round. No option but to keep going and hope. The road eventually opened onto an idyllic country home with a garden, a gazebo with tables and chairs, and just behind the gazebo — row upon row of vines. I felt I was trespassing, until a friendly face came to meet us. He welcomed us and introduced himself as Iain, the owner of Oatley Vineyard. No sooner had we arrived than we were sitting down with a glass of wine in hand. Now that's service.
The Story of Oatley
Iain told us about the vineyard, the wines, and how one particular harvest led to naming the wine after his wife. Just before harvest time, Iain put his foot in a badger hole and broke it. Jane then single-handedly harvested the grapes, and as a surprise, Iain named the wine after her. Jane is now very used to her new-found fame.
Oatley Vineyard was established in 1986. They grow two varieties: the early-ripening Madeleine Angevine makes Jane's — fresh, fragrant, light and perfect for summer drinking; the late-ripening Kernling makes Leonora's — fruit-driven with a hint of spice that develops into honey and herbal notes when aged. Not surprising, given that one of its parent varieties is Riesling. Oatley also produce a sparkling wine, though on this visit it was sold out.
What makes Oatley unique is that they won't sell through shops — not even Harrods. Iain likes to speak to his customers personally, to tell them about the wine, how it was made, and the story of that particular harvest. After our rest under the gazebo — listening to Iain's stories and admiring certificates from Decanter and the International Wine Challenge — we ambled through the vineyard and learned how the two varieties need different pruning styles, and how climate, soil and topography play their part.
The talk, the wine and the tour were wonderful. Iain is a natural storyteller, and even 20 years in, the passion feels fresh. Oatley is a hidden gem tucked near the Quantock Hills. Find out more at oatleyvineyard.co.uk — phone ahead to book a visit.