Riesling Tasting
A group of friends gather to taste Rieslings from Germany, Alsace, Australia and New Zealand — discovering why older really is better with one of the world's most underappreciated grapes.
I have a few friends who get together to taste wine when we can. Last night we tasted Rieslings from both the Old World and the New — Old World being European wine countries, New World covering New Zealand, America and Australia. I love the Riesling grape, and I have to say: older the better.
About Riesling
The grape originated from the Rhine in Germany. The fascinating thing about Riesling is that it doesn't need to be messed with — its natural characteristics are enough, without oak or lees ageing. This grape is what they call "naturally expressive": where it's grown is what really matters. It's well known for its kerosene notes. Yes — petrol. And it is good.
Rosealynne, a scientist in our wine group, noted that the petrol note is caused by the compound 1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene (TDN), which forms from carotenoid precursors via acid hydrolysis during ageing. The grape also shows flowery, perfumed notes, high acidity, and extraordinary versatility — from bone dry to lusciously sweet to sparkling.
The Wines
Main Divide Riesling 2008 — Waipara Valley, New Zealand: Gorgeous yellow colour with a tinge of green. The nose leapt out of the glass — honeysuckle, lemon, lime and a hint of kerosene. The palate, however, lacked acidity to balance the sweetness.
Domaine Schlumberger 2007 — Alsace: Beautiful golden yellow, a powerful yet delicate nose of pear drops and lemon. Dry, with green apple and sharp acidity. Good length, ideal with food.
Pauletts 2008 — Polish River, Clare Valley, Australia: Deep golden colour, stewed apples, floral notes, honeysuckle and that tell-tale hint of kerosene. All followed through on the palate with a medium finish.
Deutschherrenhof 2003 — Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany: Very pale compared to the others. Delicate nose of floral and honeysuckle. Medium acidity, great weight and feel in the mouth — and those delicious kerosene notes.
Dr. Loosen Beerenauslese 2006 — Mosel, Germany: The daddy. A nose full of fruit: apples, burnt orange, honey and raisin. Luscious sweetness beautifully balanced by refreshing acidity. A properly grown-up wine.