It's not all Sun, Sea and Sand - Discovering Jumilla ☀️🍇
Taking in some winter sun in Spain, Matthew visited fourth-generation family bodega Juan Gil in Jumilla — a rugged, high-altitude region where 100-year-old Monastrell vines push their roots deep into harsh, stony soil.
A Drive into the Mountains
While taking in some winter sun we visited fourth-generation family Bodega Juan Gil in Jumilla. The drive was an experience as we left the sunny climate of Calpe and made our way up the mountains, reaching cloud and then popping out above the cloud to blue sky, sun and a crisp chill in the air at 750m above sea level.
I can never get bored of visiting a vineyard and winery — each has their own uniqueness that makes them special, they all have a story to tell. The land here is not for the faint-hearted. It is barren and harsh with stony soil and 100-year-old gnarled Monastrell vines low to the ground, spaced far enough apart to push their roots to find water, as these vineyards are not irrigated. 3,000 hours of sunshine, yet only 300 litres of water a year.
Adrian greeted us and showed us the winery and barrel room before tasting the wines. He talked through the journey of the grapes from hand harvesting, a state-of-the-art optical sorting machine allowing a more rigorous grape selection for quality, all the way through to the gentle barrel ageing. All the wines from the Gil Family winery are produced with natural yeasts — which I always think is exciting from a wine-geek perspective.
The heart of the family is very much in the Jumilla wine region, while growing their portfolio to other Spanish wine-producing regions. Along with a range of Jumilla, we had the opportunity to taste Atteca — made from old-vine Garnacha grown on clay soils from Calatayud in northern Spain. Dark, concentrated, plump fruit with soft elegance coupled with power. In contrast we tasted La Atalaya del Camino — Monastrell and the red-fleshed Alicante Bouschet, savoury, herbaceous with dark cherry.
The Wines of Juan Gil
Juan Gil Moscatel — A small amount is aged in old oak, and a portion in concrete eggs which adds texture. Aromas of fresh peach and kiwi with hints of jasmine and white pepper. The palate has ripe and juicy stone fruit and honeydew melon characters, refreshing acidity and a long, spicy finish.
Juan Gil Yellow Label Monastrell — Old-vine Monastrell aged for four months in oak. The nose has rich plum and bramble characters with delicate vanilla spice and cedar. The palate has layers of ripe fruit — blackcurrant, blackberry, spicy plum and cherry — and fine tannins balanced by bright acidity.
Twelve months in French oak gives powerful aromas of baked strawberry, blackberry and a hint of chocolate. Spice and cedar are layered with juicy ripe plum. Full-bodied, with supple tannins and an overall sense of freshness thanks to the crucial bright acidity. A complex wine with great appeal, concentration and length.
Produced from low-yielding, old-vine Monastrell with Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. An opulent nose of ripe black fruits, spice and balsamic notes. The palate is complex and concentrated — rich and full with mocha, cherry, plum and chocolate, backed by rounded tannins and fresh acidity.
An organic expression of Jumilla's most celebrated grape — Monastrell grown on ancient, dry-farmed soils. Deep in colour and flavour, with dark cherry, warm spice and earthy complexity.
The Jumilla wines were a real treat and showed character, authenticity and really highlighted the quality of a wine region not so well known in the UK.